"I say it's broccoli, and I say the hell with it!"

That's the caption to one of my favorite New Yorker cartoons. Obviously, broccoli boiled within an inch of its life is a misery. Give it to the French, who could make shoe leather edible, and you get Timbales de Brocoli, florets pureed with cream, egg, spring onions, s/p, and a pinch of nutmeg, which cooks up like custard in adorable little ramekins. It could make even the finickiest eater a fan.

Bow-Tie Pasta

Here's Chuck making his "Ultimate Ragu alla Bolognese" last Sunday, looking just like Chris Kimball, editor of Cook's Illustrated. Chuck, in his admirable humility, is not much like Kimball who comes across as if he walks on artisinal Vermont spring water.

And you thought Ragu came from a jar...

Chuck got it into his head to make the "Ultimate Ragu alla Bolognese" from the Nov/Dec issue of Cook's Illustrated this weekend. We had a delicious dinner of antipasto, olive ciabatta, and pappardelle with the ragu. The ragu is a carnivore's dream come true: ground pork, veal, and beef; mortadella; pancetta; and chicken livers. Oh, yes, and gelatin...!

Awe-sso Bucco

Chuck got it into his head that we should have osso bucco this weekend, so we stopped at Ottomanelli's on First Avenue for veal shanks yesterday. They were luscious. The process is so simple: brown the shanks in olive oil; cook onion, carrots, and celery until soft; return the shanks to the pot with tomatoes, broth, and white wine; simmer for 1 1/2 hours. Remove the shanks, reduce the sauce to three cups; and dress the whole thing with gremolata (parsley, garlic, and lemon zest). The Italians prove that good food can be as satisfying as good sex.