Chuck got it into his head that we should have osso bucco this weekend, so we stopped at Ottomanelli's on First Avenue for veal shanks yesterday. They were luscious. The process is so simple: brown the shanks in olive oil; cook onion, carrots, and celery until soft; return the shanks to the pot with tomatoes, broth, and white wine; simmer for 1 1/2 hours. Remove the shanks, reduce the sauce to three cups; and dress the whole thing with gremolata (parsley, garlic, and lemon zest). The Italians prove that good food can be as satisfying as good sex.
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